Frequently Asked Questions

Please call us if you have any questions or need help setting up or operating your system. We want you to be completely satisfied with your CR Spotless Water System®.

Deionization is a method used most often by laboratories to produce purified water on demand. All naturally-occurring water contains dissolved mineral salts. In solution, salts separate into positively-charged cations and negatively-charged anions. Deionization can reduce the amounts of these ions to very low levels through the process of ion exchange. Cations are removed by cation exchange resin. It replaces sodium, calcium, magnesium, and other cations with hydrogen ions (H+). This exchange produces acids which must be removed or neutralized by anion exchange resin. This is also why you must not use the system outside of its operating parameters or you could cause damage to your work surface.

Two general types of anion resin are used for deionization: weak base resin and strong base resin. Weak base resin adsorbs strong acids, while strong base resin exchanges chloride, sulfate and alkaline anions for hydroxide ions (OH-). The hydrogen ions from the cation exchange process combine with the hydroxide ions from the anion exchange process to form water (HOH or H2O). Because the deionization process is so effective, the water quality is usually measured by the water’s resistance to electric current (in OHM-cm). The end result is purified water that won’t leave mineral deposits – water spots – on your car! The bottom line is that the CR Spotless proprietary system is a blend of filtration and deionization which gets the best results in the industry- ZERO parts per million total dissolved solids.”

As the water passes through the resin, all the spot causing minerals in the water cling to the resin beads and the purified water continues on to provide spot free water.

Softened water (potassium or sodium based) will not extend the life of the resin. The TDS count of the water coming out of the water softener will be (more or less) the same as the water going into your softener and may damage your work surface in cases with high levels of total dissolved solids in the supply water.

Deionized water systems produce 0 ppm water which is physically impossible to leave any spot-inducing residues on your work surface. Filter expiration characteristics are primarily dependent on your local water quality (higher flow rates/resin age can also contribute) and may produce work surface damage above 0 ppm. Nearly every one of our customers do not experience any spots/damage between 1-10 ppm and the vast majority of our customers do not experience spots/damage between 10-20 ppm. Use above 20 ppm will cause damage to your work surface. You must test your system above 0 ppm with your local source on a test surface to determine your system’s expiration characteristics (i.e. when it starts to leave spots that must be removed by polish). Resin will read 0 throughout 90% of its life so you are not sacrificing much capacity should you decide to change above 0 ppm and once it begins to read a value above 0, it can rapidly increase ppm values during wash.

Some well water users have experienced adverse results when using the system downstream of iron removers and/or water softeners. It is best to use the system with your well water before it passes through any stripper/softener and do not use if the CR Spotless unit TDS meter reads any number above 0 (typical resin life exhibits 000 ppm through approximately 90% of resin life so very little capability is lost by this protocol).

 No, it will not remove your wax and the best part is that you do not have to worry about tiny scratches cause by drying with a towel or chamois!

 First off, a top-shelf *thank you* for spreading the word about all things spotless!

The good news is that we gladly reward both of you 🙂 The new buyer gets 10% off his first purchase and we’ll apply a $25 store credit to the person who sent ’em over. There are just a few things we ask for in order to make this possible:

1. The buyer must call us directly and ask for the reward pricing at time of purchase AND the referrer MUST BE IN OUR SYSTEM! To be in our system means you purchased the unit directly from us OR registered the product on our website Product Registration link (at the bottom of every page).
2. The discount will be taken from our website pricing exclusive of any sale items and discount is good for total amount of first purchase.
3. You will receive an emailed $25 CRSS store gift certificate after the 30 day return period has expired. You must log into the website with your username and password to view current credit amount. Gift certificate may be applied to any item and is not redeemable for cash.

Yes, it is possible. After long periods of non-use there is a possibility that algae can form and foul the resin. If it is going to sit for a long period of time with out use (60-90 days) we suggest that you remove the resin cartridges, allow them to drip dry and dry the inside of the blue housings to prevent algae growth.

No, just use your normal soap and make sure you rinse thoroughly wherever soapy water can be trapped. Be mindful of soapy or contaminated water that can get trapped in places and displaced by our *spot-free* water, only to land on a spot you’ve already rinsed! You’ll quickly learn where this ‘bad’ water lives as nothing with rat you out faster than water that cannot spot 😉

You sure can! Simply order a resin exchange and we’ll send you fresh cartridges filled with resin. You simple place the spent cartridges in the bags provided, attach the pre-paid shipping labels, and return within 4 weeks of receipt of the fresh set. Along with another 9,999 spotless recyclers, we’ll save 72 TONS of plastic from the landfill for each exchange!.

No, please do not drink the water. Pure water has no nutritional value.

No, it can harm some of your interior household plumbing.

You have placed one of the cartridges in upside down. The white, screw-on cap belongs at the bottom of the blue filter housing and the black rubber washer belongs at the top, mating with the housing assembly.

The blue cartridge housings are rated at 90psi maximum and the unit is leak-tested to handle this amount of pressure. Typical residential regulators reduce pressure to 65psi and both your Spotless Water unit (and your house) may be in jeopardy if operated above 90psi.

That is perfect, the meter will read 000 (single digit for newer models) for 95% of the resin’s life expectancy.

Once you start to see numbers, it will increase rapidly and you must change the resin before the meter reads 20 ppm (or 020 ppm in our older systems)

The wiring harness that plugs into the meter has become unseated. Remove the meter off its velcro mount and gently remove and reseat the wiring harness. Be careful not to tug on any one wire to do so. Grasp the entire harness assembly at once when removing and reseating. If ERR remains, please contact us.

Yes, the resin has a shelf life of approximately 18 months before it will start to lose effectiveness.

If you are not going to use the system for a couple of months please drain the water out of the system and let the resin cartridges drip dry. Place the resin cartridges in a cool dry area.

Our unit produces Type III water per the ASTM standards noted below:

ASTM Standards for Laboratory Reagent Water (ASTM D1193-91)

ASTM: American Society for Testing and Materials

Measurement (Unit)

Type I

Type II

Type III

Type IV

Resistivity (MΩ-cm)

> 18

> 1

> 4

> 0.2 (200KΩ)

Conductivity (µS/cm)

< 0.056

< 1

< 0.25

< 5

pH at 25˚C




5.0 – 8.0

Total Organic Carbon(TOC) ppb or µg/L

< 50

< 50

< 200


Sodium (ppb or µg/L)

< 1

< 5

< 10

< 50

Chloride (ppb or µg/L)

< 1

< 5

< 10

< 50

Silica (ppb or µg/L)

< 3

< 3

< 500


Please click here to download a copy of the MSDS.

Rats! We hate it when that happens…it’s why we created the system in the first place! Assuming those spots weren’t already there (ahem…our system only keeps them from forming; it does not remove them), this could be due to a few issues.

The primary causal factor is letting the work surface dry outdoors when ‘stuff’ is floating in the air and lands on the drying water causing a ‘dust ring’. Airborne pollen and neighbors with yard blowers are the bane of *spotless* existence so keep an eye (and ear!) out for these contaminant sources.

Another causal factor could be that the output hose you’re using is old…and probably a 50 footer. Over time, hoses will absorb minerals and the first thing deionized water wants to do is collect ’em up and (unfortunately) carry them out the business end of the hose and onto your work surface. As long as your meter is reading 0, the only thing coming out the business end of the system is hydrogen & oxygen so be sure you’re not donating any unnecessary minerals to your spot-free water. A new hose should solve the problem.

Another reason may be that you’re rinsing away pockets of soapy water and some of that is getting bounced onto areas you’ve already rinsed off. Don’t use more water than you have to, but it is necessary to remove all soapy and/or ‘dirty’ water to enjoy the *spot-free* capability we designed into the system.

Absolutely! In fact, it can be the easiest way to cut your resin use by 75% (wow…did we just say that?). Yes- we did because a) we don’t want you to unnecessarily waste product (and water) and b) we’ve been enjoying pressure washers with our system for over a decade and learned a few things as a result.

The primary contributor to resin (and, more importantly, water in the draught-savaged region of the West) consumption is the amount of water you flow through the system in a given amount of time (hence gallons per minute or GPM). The nozzle we supply with the system uses about 2 GPM of water with standard residential water pressure and now there are many electric pressure washers that only use 1.2 gpm. We like cocktail napkin math so let’s call that a 50% reduction in water for the same amount of ‘spraying time’.

The second order effect of a pressure washer is that it is easily twice as effective as a spray nozzle: a pressure washer ‘blasts’ contaminants away while a nozzle ‘sprays’ it off. So instead of spraying the nozzle 4 or 5 times across the hood, just blast it twice with a pressure washer and Viola! you’ve accomplished the same task by using 75% less water (and resin). That saves $$$ and precious resources for a win-win all around.

We offer a couple different options to supply your pressure washer needs: CLICK HERE to see the ‘Binford 5000’ of pressure washers that is flow-rate adjustable AND built like a Panzer tank for residential/commercial use or CLICK HERE for a unit specially designed to be mounted inside an RV bay (and withstand the heat build up that can happen in an enclosed RV bay).

Not without proper prep…you must first ‘Drain then Drive’. Laying down a system filled with water can disturb the resin bed inside the cartridges and allow bad water to bypass treatment. If you need to lay the unit down for transport, you should drain the water out of the cartridges by removing the blue housings, pouring out the water and allowing the cartridges to ‘drip-dry’ (standing on end with the white cap down) for about 15 min. Re-install and then get your drive on. Remember, Drain & Drive…

CLICK HERE to view a simple chart that will show how many gallons our systems will treat depending upon your inbound water quality (as defined by parts per million of total dissolved solids) before the meter reaches 20 ppm (or 020 ppm on our older systems) at which point you must change the resin or risk damage to the work surface. The hardest questions we get asked is how many washes you’ll get and that is best answered by how many gallons our system will provide. We then use this information to determine your needs (some folks use Niagra falls to wash their stuff while others measure the water by atomic weight and dispense accordingly…give us a call and we can help you figure this part out!).